Morning Glory
457 King Street East
416-703-4728
Brunch for two with all taxes, tip and coffee: $30
Morning Glory is one of those neighbourhood joints that fly under the radar. A popular Corktown breakfast spot since December 2003, it now tends to get overshadowed by Gilead Café, just around the corner. But on the Sunday morning we visit, the flow of customers is good, with many headed for the small but cute patio out back.
Inside, wooden tables sit in front of the church pews that line one wall. It’s a wee spot, only 20 seats, and the kitchen is smaller than what I work out of at home. A staff member washes dishes by hand while another pulls back an undersink curtain to pull out an iPod attached to the stereo system. It may look all retro and kitsch but they’re embracing technology.
The restaurant is open for breakfast and lunch every day, serving up a variety of morning and noon favourites that include French toast ($8), granola with yogurt and fruit ($6.50) and a variety of eggs with a daily special. Sandwiches range from $6 to $6.50 and lean heavily to the porcine fillings with ham and bacon (plus some tuna), showing up regularly in sandwiches such as the BLT, the Monday classic (bacon, brie & caramelized onion on ciabatta), or the jimmy screech (grilled ham & havarti with dijon and a fried egg right in the bread). A couple of veggie options are included, and customers can add a salad or a cup of the soup of the day for an additional $2.
I opt for the omlette of the day ($8.50) which is stuffed with apple and cheddar. It comes with toast and a potato rosti, and for an additional $2.50, I top up the plate with a hefty serving of Mennonite ham. The eggs are light and fluffy, but this dish could be tweaked to be more flavourful – the cheddar is quite young and the apple slices are raw, so it comes off fairly bland. The ham is quite lovely; sweet-ish and cured with a light hand. The rosti is also a nice touch, but no apple sauce or sour cream?
Across the table, the agent 99 sandwich ($6) Greg orders is a massive ciabatta bun with a an oozing fried egg, ham, cheddar, tomato, aioli and homemade ketchup. It’s a good flavour combination that is nicely balanced, and the homemade ketchup seriously rocks. We even ask about buying some to take home, but it’s available only in the restaurant.
Coffee refills are regularly offered and while the brew seems weak at first glance, it’s a rich, flavourful, slightly nutty blend that is well served by not being brewed to the consistency of motor oil as we make it at home.
Morning Glory is a great little spot, obviously beloved by people in the Corktown ‘hood. And while the omlette didn’t quite blow me away, I’d definitely be a regular if I lived in the area.