Sheryl Kirby

Around the World and Back in Time at Butler’s Pantry

Butler’s Pantry
371 Roncesvalles Avenue
416-537-7750
Brunch/lunch for two with all taxes, tip and soda: $30

This is supposed to be a brunch review. You’d know that because it’s Sunday. Except it’s not a brunch review because we didn’t actually eat brunch. Upon arriving at the Roncesvalles location of Butler’s Pantry we decided we weren’t really in the mood for typical brunch fare. Instead we decided to revisit some old favourites for a trip down memory lane.

That’s not to say that Butler’s Pantry doesn’t offer a decent brunch card. Although it’s been probably 7 or 8 years since I’ve had the dish, their French toast ($7.25) is still renowned, and I’m momentarily chagrined at my decision to have an entrée when a plate of the massive fluffy fried bread goes past. The rest of the brunch offerings (offered until 2pm on weekdays and 4pm on weekends) include a variety of omlettes ($6.25 – $8.25), eggs Benedict ($7.25, $8.75 with smoked salmon), and scrambled eggs ($8.95).

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Innoculation – or, How Food Bloggers Can and Should Arm Themselves Against Viral Marketers

If you’ve never received one, then consider yourself lucky. If you’re a recipe blogger, you might never know the greasy, depressing feeling of opening up your email inbox to be assaulted with fake flattery and a patronizing cut and paste formula-based invitation. But eventually, because that’s their whole premise, the viral marketing companies will get to most of us, luring innocent food bloggers with flattery and booze, hoping you’ll sell your soul for a party and a gift bag, or some free samples.

While not a new phenomenon, in the age of the internet, viral marketing has become more and more pervasive. The original viral marketers used kids to inadvertently sell their products – put a pair of (free) fancy sneakers on the feet of the most popular kid in the school and watch as his classmates flocked to the store to buy the same gear. It works for clothes, technology (“hey, cool phone!”) and even vehicles – Torontonians should wonder any time they see a shiny new scooter parked on a sidewalk in front of a hip club or restaurant.

At its heart, viral marketing is about manipulation. This website outlines the six simple principles of viral marketing…

Gives away products or services
Provides for effortless transfer to others
Scales easily from small to very large
Exploits common motivations and behaviors
Utilizes existing communication networks
Takes advantage of others’ resources

From the standpoint of the food blogger, it is important to be aware of these principles if you regularly receive offers of free products or invitations to promotional events.

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Mango Season

In our supermarket society, we sort of take for granted that all produce will be accessible at all times. And while the idea of seasonality is becoming more prevalent for locally-grown foods, we tend to not think of things like oranges, pineapples or mangoes as having a season, when in fact, they do.

For a brief period of about 6 weeks from the beginning of April to mid-May, Alphonso (aka. Alphanso) mangoes are in season in India.

The only place in Toronto to get them is Little India, where a number of the small grocery stores carry them. Available in boxes of either 6 or a dozen, Alphonso mangoes are not cheap. We paid $23.99 for a box of 12. They’re also smaller than the average mango, but what they lack in size, they make up for in flavour.

Even unpeeled, the bowl of mangoes fills my kitchen with their scent. Cut open they smell both floral and spicy at the same time. It is said that once you eat an Alphonso mango, you’ll never go back to those hard stringy yellow ones. Sometimes an Atulfo (the Mexican variety) will suffice – again if they’re in season, which is only a few weeks before the Alphonsos come to town – but nothing compares to the flavour of these luscious mangos flown in from India.

Yes, I know, they’ve got a scary food miles number. I don’t care – I eat them once a year, and forsake mangoes for the rest of the year. (Actually, I just found canned Alphonso mangos at my supermarket. Once the fresh ones are done we’ll crack open the can and see if they compare.)

The only problem with Alphonso mangoes is that they don’t have a very long shelf life. Which means we’ve been eating the things at every meal to use them up before they go bad. For breakfast yesterday, I sliced them and served them on top of coconut rice pudding. Today we ate them with oatmeal.

There’s only a few left. Fingers crossed the canned ones are just as good as fresh so I can have Alphonsos year-round.

Eating at the Kids’ Table

Getting kids interested in food seems to be a growing trend, with articles about parents taking their kids to fine dining restaurants or enrolling them in kids’ cooking classes popping up in publications right across North America, with opinion split on whether it’s a positive development.

But once kids hit their teenage years, dining out at restaurants is something that can not only be an enjoyable way to socialize, but a great way to learn about new foods and new cultures.

For the past few weeks, and continuing into early May, kids in grades 7 and 8 from Parkdale Public School have joined members of the arts collective Mammalian Diving Reflex for a series of dinners in restaurants in Parkdale and along Queen Street West called Eat the Street. Part performance art happening and part a lesson in food, culture and etiquette, the kids have the opportunity to act as restaurant reviewers, critiquing the food, service, and atmosphere of a space that is more than likely foreign to them. The idea is to watch how the kids interact with the restaurant and how the restaurant, including staff and other patrons, interact with them.

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Wise Up – A New Way to Choose Sustainable Fish

We hear more and more news stories about how fish stocks are dwindling world-wide. Consumers are told to search out sustainable fish, but most of us don’t really know what that means. Even if we are conscious of the problem and make an effort – carrying one of those wallet cards, for instance, or grilling our fishmongers as to the origins of their wares – it’s still tough to know exactly where our fish dinner is coming from. And when it comes to restaurants, it’s even tougher.

Restaurants have small profit margins, and the temptation for a chef to serve something cheap and cheerful is often high. The fish we love to eat the most are the ones that are most at risk, and restaurants play an important role in teaching and encouraging customers about choosing sustainable options.

Ocean Wise is a programme created by the Vancouver Aquarium to do just that. Working directly with restaurants and markets, Ocean Wise is a non-profit association dedicated to the education of consumers which allows them to make sustainable choices. The Ocean Wise logo next to a menu item or in a shop is an assurance that the item is a good choice for keeping ocean life healthy and abundant for generations to come.

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Sunday Brunch – The Parkdale Drink

The Parkdale Drink
1292 Queen Street West
416-778-8822
Brunch for two with all taxes, tip and coffee: $30

When The Parkdale Drink first opened up a couple of years ago, we were distraught that it would lure too many hipsters under the bridge at Queen and Dufferin, forever changing the face of our insulated little neighbourhood. Then one night we walked past and realized that it had, in fact, lured 905ers under the bridge, as evidenced by the Daisy Duke jean shorts, high heels and bedazzled t-shirts worn by the very classy young ladies hanging around out front having a smoke. We swore at that point never to enter the place, and reviews of the food by other media outlets did little to persuade us to change our minds. We’d peer in the huge glass windows on our way to the Caddy and make that tsk tsk sound, either because the place was empty or full of people who scared us.

But we needed a brunch review last week and didn’t feel like going too far in the pouring rain. We’d exhausted most of the other options in the area, so figured it wouldn’t be too terribly scary to pay the Parkdale Drink a visit on a rainy Sunday afternoon.

The room was empty and we were the only customers in the place for the whole time we were there, reinforcing the idea that the locals, at least, aren’t really considering this lounge a viable dining option. However, the food was decent, the service impeccable (as you would expect if you were the only customers) and the vibe – on a rainy Sunday, at least – was comfortable.

Leather sofas arranged in a large south-facing window would be a great spot for cocktails although the low coffee table isn’t conducive to eating. The rest of the long narrow room is an odd mix of beige, red and pale green walls that seems to suck all the light out of the place. But it is modern and comfortable, and there’s a bright patio at the back.

The brunch menu is full of basics, most of which are under $10. There’s a variety of omlettes ($7 – $9), brioche French toast ($9) and pancakes that comes either plain or with fruit or chocolate chips ($7 – $9). Eggs benedict comes in a variety of options ($9 – $11) and there’s a decent variety of vegetarian choices as well.

The fried egg sandwich ($6.50) comes with “choice of breakfast meat” with options of bacon, sausage or ham or peameal bacon for $1 extra. It is exactly what it claims to be – fried egg, cheese and back bacon on white toast. Home fries are a delightful surprise; nicely browned chunks of fluffy potato, topped with sautéed sweet bell peppers and onions.

I opt for the veggie eggs benedict ($9) which sees the standard poached eggs, English muffin and housemade hollandaise sauce accompanied by sliced avocado, wilted spinach and tomato. This is a really great flavour combination, although it would work better with the avocado slightly mashed, as things tend to slide around too much otherwise. Eggs are properly cooked with nicely runny centres and the hollandaise is fresh if not memorable in terms of flavour elements.

Both plates come accompanied by the typical selection of brunch fruit; de rigeur cantaloupe and berries, although where there would normally be a slice of orange that threatens to squirt the diner in the eye as they eat it, someone has sectioned and peeled orange segments and artfully arranged them on the plate. Yes, I said sectioned and peeled. But I guess if we’re the only customers in the place for an hour, it’s not like the kitchen has anything more interesting to do. We appreciate the effort – it’s a nice touch, and the sides and garnish add a lot to our overall good impression of the place.

Service is friendly and efficient – coffee is refilled regularly, water comes to the table with our menus. We’re asked if we want dessert. We’re so impressed, in fact, that we discuss coming back for dinner, and would definitely come back again for brunch.

I don’t know if The Parkdale Drink is still attracting that some clubland-style crowd who descend upon the place for cocktails and bottle service; I suspect it doesn’t get hopping until well after my bedtime so I may never know. But maybe after a couple of years in business, the kitchen has worked out the early kinks that earned it so many mediocre reviews. Brunch at least is a decent card of well-executed standards at reasonable prices that are worth checking out if you’re brave enough to venture under the bridge.

Happ McAnniversary to Me

It’s my 20 year McAnniversary this month. April of 1989 was the last time I ate anything from McDonald’s. I don’t remember the exact date because it wasn’t really a marker at the time. My boyfriend and I had been to the Toronto Zoo where we visited the Americans pavilion. There were huge info walls explaining that the Amazon rain forest was disappearing as more and more land was cleared to make space for cattle farms – to raise beef for US and Canadian burger chains. At the time, McDonald’s was the only food available to purchase at the Toronto Zoo (how’s that for irony?) and I made the decision then and there to never eat at McD’s again.

The task has been a surprisingly easy one. Living in downtown Toronto, I have plenty of other options and am still boggled at how people can choose McD’s over a block full of great ethnic restaurants. There has been some pressure over the years, with many people not understanding or respecting my decision, but I’ve managed to stick to my promise to myself.

In those 20 years, I’ve been inside a McDonald’s exactly four times. Twice on road trips in the early 90s along highway 401 when I needed to use the washroom, back when the rest stops consisted of a service station and a fast food restaurant. I won’t eat their food, but I will pee in their toilets, thank you very much. Rest stops are now more like tiny malls with a donut shop and a magazine/variety store as well as the restaurant and gas station, so I no longer have to go inside the McDonald’s to pee, and can usually find a candy bar or something to eat if I’ve not bothered to pack a snack. The other times were to drop off toys for a holiday toy drive and once when I was meeting someone at Dundas subway station, which has its own McD’s outlet.

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Can You Keep a Secret?

It was a dark and stormy night. As the rain poured down and the wind battered our umbrellas, we opened the newspaper box and pulled out an envelope bearing our name. After opening the letter and reading the instructions, we placed $220 in the envelope, walked a block or so west and headed down a darkened laneway, then a steep flight of stairs. We knocked and a small window in the door opened. “What’s the password?” a burly face asked. “We’re here to see Charlie,” I replied, a quiver of fear and anticipation in my voice. The door swung open. The man took our envelope of cash and directed us down a hallway where we entered a room revealing a scene like something out of an F. Scott Fitzgerald novel. The champagne was flowing, the band was playing, and everywhere we turned, gastronomic delights were spread across tables for the taking.

Okay… not quite. The evening was sunny and mild, the room was a brightly lit west-end gallery space, and (thankfully) no pretentious password was required to get in. Comparisons to a 1920s speakeasy aren’t far off when talking about how to get into an event in Toronto’s underground restaurant scene, but it’s actually much more subdued and cultivated – the emphasis being on great food and drink more than anything else.

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Where Can I Find – Local Preserves

I got an email from some friends recently looking for locally-made jam. They were specifically looking for wee little jars to give out as favours at their upcoming wedding, but as I thought and thought and thought about it, I was having a hard time coming up with anything more than Greaves in Niagara-on-the-Lake, which is where they got the idea for wee little jars in the first place.

When most of us think of jam we either head for our favourite supermarket brands or else to the pantry for a jar of homemade. After all, nothing compares to Grandma’s. But the area in between is a grey one. Jams, jellies and preserves that don’t fit into the homemade or supermarket versions often get lumped in with luxury consumables; the kind of thing you’d enjoy if someone gave you a gift basket of the stuff, but not something that you’d necessarily seek out for yourself.

Which is a shame, especially when we’re talking about products made from local fruit, since the abundance of berries and stone fruit available in Southern Ontario each summer is some of the best in the world.

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The Charms of the Farm – Why a CSA is the Best Way to Enjoy the Harvest

harvestparsley

It’s almost April, and everywhere you turn people are planning their gardens – mapping out plots, ordering seeds. It’s enough to make a yardless city gal a little bit jealous, and I know I’m not the only one experiencing garden envy.

For those of us who can’t grow our own food (or who have ambitious plans in April that never seem to include weeding in the 30°C temperatures of August), the next best thing is to find our very own farmer who will do it for us – weeding included.

Spring is also when farmers start planning their upcoming growing season and is the perfect time for customers looking to get involved with a Community Shared Agriculture(CSA) programme to find a farmer to work with.

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