Sunday Brunch – Niagara Street Cafe

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Niagara Street Café
169 Niagara Street
416-703-4222
Brunch for two with all taxes, tip and coffee: $52

I’ve always heard good things about the Niagara Street Café. It’s original incarnation was run by a mother/daughter team who used free-range and organic ingredients. When it transferred hands in 2004, it continued to gain accolades, particularly at brunch.

Everything about the place seems ideal – nice cozy space that would be filled with sunshine if we weren’t in the middle of a run of grey days, great looking menu with interesting options. But there’s an undercurrent of something that wasn’t quite right, especially in terms of the menu. What looks good on paper doesn’t jibe so well when reality sets in.

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It’s All Good at the General Store

 

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Good Catch General Store
1556 Queen Street West
416-533-4664

The success of any retail business is based on its ability to respond to the surrounding community. Can you give the customer what they want? A business that sees itself as part of the community can take that relationship one step further, as it not only supplies the regional customer base with goods, but gives those customers a central place to meet, shop and be a part of things.

 

In the olden days, that would have been a local general store. In 2008, it’s also the general store, or at least that’s the case in Parkdale.

 

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A Tiny Touch of Tati’s Paris

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Tati Bistro
124 Harbord Street
416-962-8284
Dinner for two with all taxes, tip and wine: $130

I’m not a fan of science fiction. I’m a grounded in reality kind of gal. So every time I watch the film Mon Oncle by famed French actor/director Jacques Tati, I am always relieved when main character Monsieur Hulot leaves his sister’s “house of the future” to return to his little garret across the market square from the quintessential Parisian bistro. The juxtaposition of the modern kitchen and M. Hulot’s primitive, neighbourhood, family-run bistro speak to generations of people, both in France and elsewhere, who long to retain their cultural roots.

Chef Laurent Brion manages to capture exactly the mood of Hulot’s neighbourhood bistro (okay, minus the pack of dogs out front) in Harbord Street’s newest gem, Tati Bistro. Sporting a logo of Tati’s bumbling postman character atop his bicycle from the film Jour du Fête, the restaurant takes over the location of the former Kensington Kitchen and brings a tiny touch of Paris to downtown Toronto.

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Sunday Brunch – The Gladstone Hotel

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The Gladstone Hotel Ballroom Cafe
1214 Queen Street West
416-531-4635
Brunch for two with all taxes, tip and coffee: $35

Okay, so to be straight up honest, it’s not actually Sunday when we visit to do this review. It’s the morning of January 1st, and the oldest continually operating hotel is Toronto is serving up brunch – not to weary travellers as it did so many years ago, but to hungover locals and hipsters looking for something hearty and filling to ease them into the new year.

The high windows of the south-facing ballroom cafe normally have warm sunlight streaming through them, but today it’s a grey view of wet snow. The servers are bright-eyed and smiling, however, and water and coffee arrive at our table quickly.

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Feeling Brazen

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Brazen Head Irish Pub
165 East Liberty Street
416-535-8787
Dinner for two with all taxes, tip and beer: $80

In the still-barren wasteland of culinary choices that is Liberty Village, a beacon has been lit. Yes, yes, there’s Thuet and Liberty Café, but there really isn’t a cozy place with a decent beer selection and a reasonable price tag that locals can call their local. Until now.

For months we’ve all been peering across the vast expanse of parking lot at the nearby Dominion, straining to see if there was any activity in the historic industrial building that is now home to the Brazen Head pub. Progress in the retail sector of Liberty Village is slow and plodding, and while the renovations started this past summer, the doors of Liberty’s first pub didn’t open until just a few weeks ago.

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The Orange Glow of the Disco Era

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Okonomi House
23 Charles Street West
416-925-6176
Dinner for two with all taxes, tip and tea: $30

Despite its reputation as “Toronto the Good”, our fair city was supposedly quite the hedonistic place during the disco era. Centred around the Yonge Street strip, beautiful young things in white suits or wrap dresses and wedge heels congregated at the dance clubs to do the hustle, the bus stop and to drunkenly sing along to Dancing Queen by Abba. Like all club-goers, they likely wandered out into the night looking for a bite to eat, at which point, like so many generations of Torontonians after them, they would follow the beacon of the orange glow down Charles Street West to Okonomi House.

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The Number One Rule of the Buffet – You Get What You Pay For

 

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Indian Flavour
123 Dundas Street West, 2nd floor
416-408-2799
Buffet lunch for two with all taxes, tip and lassi: $30

So it’s pretty much a given that no one actually expects great food at an All-You-Can-Eat buffet. Passable, possibly flavourful, but never outstanding. Reasonably priced, but with the knowledge that you get what you pay for.

 

Such is the case with Indian Flavour. Formerly located in the Atrium on Bay, Indian Flavour reopened its doors a few months ago on Dundas West, just west of Bay Street. Like so many Indian AYCE places, the new location is up a flight of stairs, lessening the draw to walk-by traffic. Yet at lunch time, the place remains busy, with local office workers teeming in, even on the rainy day we were there.

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Yes, We Have Some Bananas

 

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Johny Banana
181 Bathurst Street
416-304-0101
Dinner for two with all taxes, tip and beer/juice: $35

So I was at one of the many restaurant opening media thingies we get invited to. And while the booze was flowing, the food was sparse, and small when it actually appeared. On an empty stomach, a couple of glasses of merlot can hit a gal (even a strapping lass like myself) pretty hard, and it wasn’t long before I was past the point of tipsy. Not quite at plastered, but in that window where Mexican food is the ONLY thing that will fit the bill.

 

My husband Greg had been bugging me about checking out the reworked menu at Johny Banana. We had tried to go there once when it was a lounge, but it was loud and kind of obnoxious and we’d never actually eaten there. With Suresh and Nina from Spotlight Toronto in tow, we stumbled to the corner of Queen and Bathurst in search of great Mexican food. We’d have taken passable or even mediocre Mexican food at that point, but fortunately there was no need to compromise. Johny Banana rocks in the manner of a hurricane.

 

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Opulence For the Common Man

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cafe Taste
1330 Queen Street West
416-536-7748

Deserved or not, Parkdale has a reputation for being a bit dirty and gritty, less known as a fine wine kind of place than Fine Old Canadian Sherry. Wine guy Jeremy Day has set out to change that and for the past year or so has been running a warm and welcoming little wine bar that has not just made Parkdale a destination for good wine, but has embraced the community in the process.

I spoke with Day via email, and while I don’t normally like running straight up Q&A articles, his answers were so well thought-out and eloquent that it seemed only fair to run his replies in full.

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An Open Letter To Councillor John Filion Regarding Street Food Carts

Dear Councillor Filion,

This morning, upon reading the news of the backtrack on the issue of funding street food carts, my husband said, prophetically, “He’s gonna fuck it up.”

While I think the idea for the city to purchase carts and rent them out to vendors is noble – that many potential vendors cannot afford the purchase of a new custom-built cart is a definite hurdle in getting this programme off the ground – I have an issue with your reasoning.

The Toronto Star quotes:

“We don’t want a repeat of what’s happened with hot dog carts,” said Filion. “We want a uniform look. We want something that’s good for branding the city as a food destination.

“We do not want a hodge-podge of carts that someone makes up in their garage.”

No. No, no, no, no. Please, can the city just once NOT look at something from a marketing perspective? Why do the carts all need to look the same? As long as they meet the safety and sanitation requirements, what does it matter if they ultimately look different? Doesn’t it make more sense to be able to tell the empanada cart from the pad thai cart at a glance?

 

You know who has a “uniform look”, Councillor Filion? Fast food chains where every meal is the same and the experience does not deviate whether you’re in Paris or New York or Halifax. If the push in getting food vendors onto the streets is to celebrate our diversity, then WHY would we want them to all look the same? “Branding the city as a food destination”??? Wait… I need a minute for my eyes to stop rolling around in the back of my head. You know what makes a city a great food destination? Great food!! Not the cart it comes from.

Please stop mucking around with the unnecessary details; as long as the vendors’ carts meet the safety and sanitation guidelines, the more creative they look, the better.

And finally, as for this idea about an official Toronto street food; let it be. Stop mucking with it. We have an official Toronto street food, and no matter how many carts hit the street selling noodles or tripe or kebabs, we are the city of the hot dog. That’s nothing to be ashamed of.

We at Taste T.O. have been enthusiastic supporters of the new vending cart initiative; we think it’s an important step forward in embracing our great cultural diversity, but diversity is the key word here. Your statements insinuate that Toronto needs to be Disneyfied in order to attract visitors, and that only those visitors matter in terms of street cart customers. It also assumes that visitors want some sort of bland uniformity that stifles anything unique about the individual cultures represented at the many food carts you hope to place on the streets. Can we not give both our visitors and our citizens more credit than that?

Certainly, safety and sanitation must be the priority, but beyond that, we are a city that embraces all languages, all colours, and all cultures. Why not all carts?